Milan, Italy — Purity, as a result of the balance between rococo extravagance and a comforting quietness, defined the spirit of the Gentryportofino fall 2020 collection presented in the Sala Tiepolo at Milan’s Palazzo Clerici. The space, in all of its own rococo royalty, felt like a time machine back into the 18th century: full of golden chandeliers, baroque decor, and versaille-esc murals all around. The collection, flattered by its surroundings, looked as lavish as ever; but not in the “Hey look at me!” way that is so repeatedly tiring in fashion.
In the collection we found a clean and comforting silhouette, courtesy of the body-hugging knits and elongated outerwear. Cloak-like garments and top-coats layered over sweeping dresses in precious fabrics consisting of gauzes as well as loro piana cashmere. The color palette, kept very rich and produced by natural dyes, consisted of cloud-white, beige, coral, and sumptuous browns. Tying in the looks were equestrian hats and gloves, paired with high-top heels and riding boots — topped off with boujee gold and rigid jewelries.
While the collection was inspired by American modernist painter Georgia O’Keeffe and her hometown of Santa Fe, it felt more like ‘70s French bourgeois than anything. Like an Yves Saint Laurent girl but italianized and with more maturity. A look which is imaginable on wealthy European moms traveling the countryside or attending the horse races in Siena.