For fall/ winter 2019-20 designer Gabriele Colangelo zeroed in on the visual tonal contrast between diverse fibers. Velvet, in an ombre pattern in shades of gold, green and deep gray, was plotted in jacquard and pulled tightly to distinguish the velvet fabric from its silk base. The luscious material was naturally tinted in a bi-color effect, creating 3D flowery spots left by corrosion.
Colangelo used viscose crepe sparingly, and he used it well. One of the stand out items was an inky black viscose velvet car coat partially lightened to expose the original white fabric.
In contrast to the look of the materials Gabriele Colangelo focused on its weight. Heavy double faced wool was used for coats detailed with slightly rounded shoulders and a relaxed waist. Starch sanded cotton twill was used for oversized shirt jackets and paired with gabardine wrap skirts or crinkled crepe skirts flowing around the legs, exposing fluid trousers underneath.
A selection of oversized knitwear was featured this season in ribbed wool. Soft nappa, locally tanned in tones of honey, caramel and ice-white, was designed into blouses and trousers and paired with thin, unlined mink overcoats colored in teal green, produced by SAGA FURS.
Saga Furs appears to be the fur sponsor for Milan Fashion Week having made collaborations with TheOneMilano and Cristiano Burani respectfully. The fur company is highly regarded for their animal welfare standards, which they state are fully sustainable and traceable.
As for the remainder of the Gabriele Colangelo collection, the designer devoted much to his silhouette. The long and loose designs were conservatively restrained with light draping angled in place by metal rings covered in leather. The collection was complimented by simple oversized leather bags decorated in shearling and knee high boots or sandals crafted in leather.