Radical Archetypes: Marco Rambaldi Fall/ Winter 2019-20 Collection.

Marco Rambaldi Fall/ Winter 2019-20 (photo: courtesy)
Review by Lucas Pantoja

As Marco Rambaldi does in typical Marco Rambaldi fashion, he pulls from history (primarily Italian folk) and reinterprets it with a contemporary and personal image. In his latest collection, Rambaldi presents a woman with a bit more sartorial and folk garments in her wardrobe, but don’t worry she comes with all the grunge and edge that stays in line with the designer’s vision. Not to mention trying to define the Marco Rambaldi woman as one “type” doesn’t prove very feasible, and in this collection especially.

The Fashion Plate
Marco Rambaldi Fall/ Winter 2019-20

The inspiration for the collection started from the 1974’ photographic volume “Ruoli” or in english “Roles” by Marcella Campagnano; a radical pro-feminist series of photographs depicting women of the seventies disguising themselves in different societal roles. Having started from there we see Rambaldi’s narration of the concept as each outfit on the runway is to represent a different female archetype: the manager, lover, activist, prostitute, transsexual, student, and heroine.

The Fashion Plate
Black and white photo from Marcella Campagnano’s book “Ruoli”.

As for the actual clothing which hit the runway, we certainly find 70’s elements in the psychedelic tie dyes, fluorescent leopard prints, loose hanging knits, folkish patchworks, and “Superfly” fur coats. It’s a bit Margot Tenenbaum mixed with Joni Mitchell and a hint of Kurt Cobain grunge thrown on top.

The Fashion Plate
Marco Rambaldi Fall/ Winter 2019-20

The silhouette was rather masculine and fit loosely but not oversized like we’ve seen in many other Fall/Winter collections from this season. Lest we forget the color palette, which while we find many hints of red, pink, purple, and tobacco is in some ways unspecific and can be defined more so by the few colors Rambaldi chose not to work with.

While the Marco Rambaldi woman may be rather difficult to pinpoint, it’s safe to say she’s a rule breaker who loves to flex the vintage and eclectic. She doesn’t follow trends; nor would she be caught dead in an Urban Outfitters or shopping for simplistic overly perfect garments. If she’s not dressed in head to toe Marco Rambaldi, then she’s digging through her grandmas closet for something wacky or looking at old album covers to find inspiration.

More reviews by Lucas Pantoja.
I’m just a guy from Virginia who enjoys writing about clothes. Currently studying creative direction at The Istituto Marangoni in Milan, Italy.

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