Review by Lucas Pantoja
Flashback to May of 1932 and American pilot Amelia Earhart takes flight from Harbour Grace, Newfoundland. After nearly 15 hours of soaring through icy winds, she lands in a Northern Ireland pasture, successfully deeming herself the first woman to fly solo and nonstop across the Atlantic. Since her transatlantic voyage Earhart has become a legend in the history books — not only for the success of her flight but for the empowerment she gave to women, specifically in the 20th century.
Flash forward to February of 2019 and Italian fashion brand Calcaterra presents their latest Fall/Winter fashion collection in Milan’s Palazzo Reale, pulling inspiration directly from the American pioneer of flight. Inside the collection we find thick outerwear and tailoring presented primarily in four rich colors: chocolate, dark forest green, winter white, and varying shades of tan.
Wide shoulders and angled cuts make up much of the overall silhouette — with angled shapes specifically implemented to create lightness underneath the heavy materials.
According to designer Daniele Calcaterra, the first inspiration of Earhart’s presence in his collection was the ‘light’ and ‘strong-character’ she possessed adding that Earhart, whose job as a pilot may have been seen as the “work of a man”, was rather sophisticated and feminine in her private life. This can be found in the masculinity of the wide shoulders and boxy double breasted suits, contrasting with Earhart’s sophistication in the sleekness of the textiles, the sensuous color palette, and glistening embellishments.
A collection built on lengthy overcoats, suits, and multipurpose jumpers which act as outerwear, tactility clashing with silky dresses and blouses brimming with feminine sophistication, fans of Calcaterra will appear sharp for meetings by day and turn heads on their nights out.