A Formalist Mix Of Nostalgia And Modernism: Kiton Fall/ Winter 2019-20.

Review by QC Humphrey

At the beginning of the Kiton presentation located in their showroom here in Milan, Italy, the opening line spoken by the Kiton representative was, “Kiton is known for our handmade suit, however in this collection we are introducing comfortable, relaxing, and easy-to-carry pieces.”

The KNT (Kiton New Texture) collection, a new line of athleisure wear now in its third season, is an offshoot from Kiton’s signature brand of tailored suits. The KNT designs and fabrics target a modern and youthful client.

The Fashion Plate
Walter and Mariano De Matteis in Kiton’s new KNT collection. (photo: Zach Hilty/BFA.com)

The fabrics are cashmere, silk, and linen which give the garments a luxury feel and satisfies the new generation’s sustainability expectations. However the relaxed fit trouser is not modern in its aesthetic.  For example, the elastic-waist coupled with the wide fit, while functional for a mature client, is not youthful.

The primary focus of the presentation is on the business man who travels – pieces can be folded into his suitcase and do not require a garment bag. This line is created in a little known luxe fabric called ‘Pure Vicuña Yarn’, a llama fleece so fine that it was considered by Incas to be cloth of gold.

For the new Kiton jackets the alluring fleece comes in solid colors, patterns, and jacquard.  The jackets are unstructured, no shoulder pads, two or three buttons, light weight, and have a soft luxury feel.  The special quality of the jacket is that you can fold it into your suitcase and when you arrive at your destination – no wrinkles. You will still be elegantly dressed and ready to go.

Kiton also introduced an Alpine/Ski collection with a cashmere coat lined in weasel, nutria or mink combined with a double-face garment with extractable fleece lining.  The primary fabric of the Alpine collection is cashmere, its designed in classic and historical style pieces like hooded jackets, denim and baseball inspired jackets and the classic blazer.

The Fashion Plate
Kiton’s fall 2019 ‘Alpine’ Letterman’s jacket in cashmere (photo: IMAXTREE.COM)

Kiton Fall/Winter 19-20 is a continuation of its signature hand-made suits, fine materials, and Italian tailoring, and Kiton also introduces a more relaxed and casual assortment to its main collection for the next generation. This is a welcome and inspirational change for the brand but requires more effort in design.

More reviews by QC Humphrey.

Hey! Leave a comment!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.