Tailoring, 90’s, Mobster, Grunge, Western
Written by Lucas Pantoja
Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga and head designer of Vetements took the fashion world by storm within recent years — being the one responsible for many of the hottest trends seen in today’s streets. Ironic street wear inspired hoodies, logomania, and the ever so popular Balenciaga rendition of the Bernie Sanders logo are just a few of the trends he’s brought about solely from his work at this fashion house.
For Spring 2019, the designer had other plans in mind straying away from the wave which he’d started. Instead of putting more hoodies into the ecosystem Gvasalia took the more high fashion route and reworked technicalities of tailoring, showcasing a new style of suit for the world in 2018.
Boxy sport-like shoulders with free flowing shirts underneath appear to be the basis: a uniform for those looking to dress all out and while keeping comfortable/casual at the same time. Aside from suits, we are introduced to a barrage of statement overcoats and jackets, one of which in a cheetah print fur.
As well many slim silhouette dresses can be found, decorated in all over Balenciaga logos, gold chain-links, and a casino graphic to name a few of the prints. While this collection took a different route in terms of garment construction, the 90’s vibe is still strong with Fresh Prince feels (the gold chain links) and hints of grunge.
Besides the 90’s, some western feels are prominent in the boots and denim as well as mobster in the suits and casino prints: all shown in a sci-fi digital wormhole of a tunnel.
While observing fashion it’s important to look beyond what’s considerably “good” or “bad” but more so focusing on the questions: “Does any of this have a place in the world?” and “Is anything new being done here?”.
In Demna Gvasalia’s case I’d say he’s one designer who did well this Paris fashion week by straying away from a wave he’d started which was bound to crash.