In the silence before the redemption show we waited expecting a design lineup as opulent as the location. Held at the Shangri la hotel, a former residence of Prince Roland Bonaparte, the gilded walls and parquet floors matched the spirit of the redemption collections from the past.
When the music started, our camera phones stood at the ready, we sat, waiting, longer, for a model to appear. Finally the soulful strains of “We Shall Overcome” broke through our impatience. The haunting voice and painful melody soaked inside and re-calibrated our expectations of what would really proceed for the Redemption Fall/Winter 2017-18 collection.
30 seconds into the sound track and a more familiar beat, hip hop and r&b mixed together, played over the blues track and finally a model strode onto the catwalk. We were just treated to a cool music mix by Sebastien Perrin, fashion’s mix-master of the runway.
For Fall/ Winter 2017-18 creative director Gabriele Moratti attempted to capture the changing spirit of a bold, new, undefined world. The collection opposed decadence with punk and urban grit. The idea was an aristocratic punk suited for a metropolitan environment.
There were loads of commercially viable options- frock coats and skinny pants, airy blouses and biker jackets. The mood enriched through the refinement of the tailoring, the silk dresses and lurex slacks in brocades and mikado silk. The color story too felt opulent and worldly- deep purples, electric blues, military greens and classic black & white with dashes of metallic.
The full Fall/Winter 2017-18 Redemption collection: