Penned by Nichelle Cole
Arthur Arbesser SS17 reworks or re-interprets the past focusing on uniforms, school dresses and holiday clothes at the turn of the last century in an as yet Imperial Europe. Their clothes get remixed and layered and re-colored without any inhibition.
Arthur Arbesser has a fascination for uniforms, which harks back to his Viennese roots and memories of his family. This explains the gentle strictness, and very playful, and very kinky tone of his work.
Arbesser also has a fascination for geometry, graphics, and color blocks. For inspiration the stripy costumes of the equestrian parade called the Palio di Siena influences the bold patterns and bold colors. Color is used to identify the contrade of Siena, the district or the ward within the Italian city each competing house belongs to. Arbesser choose acid green, electric blue and blood orange for his Spring collection.
Old-school floral lace is printed on coats and jackets in the same colors, but done up in a cool camouflage. Classic Gingham has a futuristic shine thanks to heat transferred fabric embedded with Swarovski crystals.
The designs were boyish in shrunken shapes. The over-sized shirt dresses featured horizontal panels of jockey silk spliced in. The clothes, as we’ve come to expect, were architectural and structured. He paired the boldly striped technical knits with lace-up patent leather booties by Fabio Rusconi and high-tech eye-wear by Silhouette.
“The idea was to make it all ironic and twisted and make it sort of funky,” Arbesser explained backstage. That playful touch was evident in the bold Swarovski crystal arrows on the bodice of fluttery pale slip-dresses — the arrow echoed throughout the collection, including rings and in the over-sized earrings designed by Ilenia Corti.
For the show’s location Arthur Arbesser collaborated with architect Luca Cipelletti who recently renovated the Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci, a former stables dating to the Habsburgs’ time in Milan. Cipelletti was able to secure it for Arbesser’s Spring 2017 show.