Penned by Roman Kozak
Saint Laurent Paris changed its creative director – Hedi Slimane left and to replace him is Anthony Vaccarello. I, like everyone else in fashion, was very curious how much the brand’s style would change, and in which way…
Reviewing Vaccarello’s debut fashion show I can say that the designer tried to keep something from Slimane’s “evening lady” and he tried to return to the YSL woman with a style from its past, the beginning of the ‘80s. And as Vaccarello stated – “It’s a work in progress”.
The looks in the show carried me away from reality… This new Saint Laurent woman was a mystery to me. While looking at the collection I remembered the words of the designer describing the new Saint Laurent woman.
“She’s certainly not bourgeois or classic,” says Vaccarello, “She has a huge respect for Saint Laurent, but not in the first degree. So I thought of her taking a vintage dress and cutting into it.”
This idea translated well. Take the asymmetrical evening dress which fluttered by the slightest wind, it brought me such excitement… I saw the golden dots reflecting from the light and could recall the age of 80s glamour and sensuality à la Saint Laurent so clearly. But the main silhouette, and the dominate looks for the season, featured single-sleeve designs with deep ‘V’ or sweetheart necklines crafted in sumptuous leather, or paired with leather jackets.
This Saint Laurent woman will always remind me of the “nuit de l’Homme” – my magic Paris at night. YSL was a triumph.