Penned by Nichelle Cole
Glamour is often seen as a form of self-indulgence. It depicts the portrait of a woman who impulsively satisfies herself in fashion, beauty and accessories – also known as vices. And one of the biggest vices known to women is shoes.
Most women will tell you that they love shoes because of the way they make them feel. They are suddenly, taller, thinner and shapelier. And often they play with shoes in a way they don’t play with other parts of their wardrobe.
And here is where Santoni comes in. A shoe company that celebrates the concept of longing and self-gratification for an all important vice. It is the modus operandai under which the heritage brand prides itself. And they deliver with this season’s offerings of exotic geometries, mysterious Moorish carvings, intricate inlaid work and dense embroideries. The Spring 2017 Santoni collection echoes a Moroccan flair: the mix of colors and materials, the tactility of the weaving and the encrusted works all recall the fantasy atmosphere of Marrakesh.
The amalgamation of dense shades of green, amber, brown, ultraviolet and lobster red creates a sumptuous chromatic texture. Materials are precious: python, suede, calfskin.
Continuing the path started with the men’s collection, Santoni collaborates once again with critic Angelo Flaccavento on the creation of an immersive experience in which the shoes are placed into an emotional and suggestive context. For the presentation during fashion week the tony interiors of Palazzo Bocconi were invaded by a labyrinth, set up by Simon Costin, in which viewers were allowed to get lost, chasing the traces of a woman intent on enjoying personal vices and unbridled self-indulgences.
The experience was announced by invitation in which artist Antonio Pippolini’s drawings are hidden inside mysterious empty envelopes.
The message: real luxury is something you can enjoy in private, away from prying eyes, getting lost after authentic, tiny vices.