Penned by Nichelle Cole
Delpozo spring 2017 is Josep Font’s strongest collection yet. The influence of Spain has always been apparent and yet this season Font lends a higher tent to Spain’s noble past and mode of dress.
The country’s past influence of Christian and Muslim dress styles resurfaced in this sumptuous spring collection. Raw materials are used to create mantles, surcoats, and tunics made of silks brocade, while the dresses’ and skirts’ feature Islamic-style floral patterns that flourish with color.
The Spanish aristocracy and urban elite were wealthy enough to change styles in clothing regularly, and we receive a taste of that wealth with Font’s assortment of sleeveless bodices, and wide flounced skirts, and with the richly patterned gowns with bell-shaped skirts over the Spanish farthingale (verdugado), a cage-like underskirt constructed of bands of willow.
The 40 look collection remains austere in a traditional black and white color pallate broken up with pieces of brightly colored garments of silk- embroidered, brocaded, or trimmed.
The collection is accessorized with lavish charms, buttons, and jewelry wrought from precious metals and crystals. “Striking” is an apt description.
The twist of the Delpozo spring 2017 collection is the Spaniards’ crinkly white ruffs (lechuguillas) historically placed at men’s necks to the golilla, a plain white semicircular collar built on a base of cardboard, but applied to the blouses and dresses for womenswear this season. Both forms of neckwear performed much the same function as in the past, keeping heads high and haughty.