Roman Kozak: Alta Roma’s – Who Is On Next? competition
By Roman Kozak
Alta Roma fashion week concludes with another interesting show including the finale of the globally recognized competition– “Who Is On Next?”. The three brands I really liked were Edithmarcel, Melampo Milano and Parden’s.
Edithmarcel is a collaboration between Gianluca Ferracin and Andrea Masato founded in 2015. The brand reflects on the theme of gender; it explores the similarities in shape, volume and length of the male and female in order to dress the male or female body from a singular collection.
This new collection, I found, is for a strong woman who likes new original cuts and shapes. The black, gold, beige and white color palette emphasizes the confident character of the protagonist. Well-defined, the silhouettes include some coquette elements such as the golden hauberk top and the blouse decorated in a fil-rouge seen peeking from under a jacket; beautiful shoes on stacked heels are decorated in the same rouge. Edithmarcel shows a delicate side to the collection but at the same time intense in style to fully represent their powerful woman.
Lulù and Anna Poletti well known as Melampo Milano began their womenswear collection in 2014. The offering is built upon the heritage brand of berets started by their grandfather in 1947. The new designers present their haute couture collection inspired by Japanese culture. The talented designers combine light dresses with bright jackets, long sleeves with the short ones and add interesting elongated collars with Eastern motifs. Dragons, fish and flowers – everything is decorated on light blue, beige, black and red colored elements. I really love the inspiration of Hokusai waves – a wonderfully decorative addition to the seasonal offering. In this new collection Melampo submit a part of Japanese magic and power to remind us of one of the most antique cultures in the world.
Parden’s, the brand by Daniele Giorgio, was born with the aim of offering a new visual language that encourages the contemporary woman to express a personal point of view through clothing. In fact, as I review his new collection and I feel some contemporary art influence in it. These geometric forms and shapes remind me of the artworks of Kandinsky. The floral prints resonate with this geometry of shape that creates a new ornamentation style. The clothes of Parden’s are multicolored, in pastel shades –they are simple and easy to combine with different basic pieces to make you look more original and contemporary.
Alta Roma was interesting and it was a great opportunity for many designers to show their talents. Not so many of them deeply affected me, but that’s fashion – for everyone it’s different and “haute couture” fashion is even more difficult to distinguish as it’s a single creation – like an artwork I hope to further explore.