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Erdem Resort 2017.

Victoriana-Edwardiana wasn’t the inspiration for the Erdem Resort 2017 collection—it was a trip to Japan he took last winter.

“I spent the Christmas holidays there and traveled around to Kyoto and Naoshima,” he said, “which made me think again about the to-and-fro between Japanese culture and the West.”

He had a pin board of street photographs of young Japanese girls in ’30s dresses (the modan garus, or go-ahead “modern girls,” who interpreted Parisian garçonne styles for themselves); shots of Mary Pickford in the 1915 silent movie Madame Butterfly; and a painting by G.H. Breitner of a girl asleep in a red kimono, among other things. He also mentioned inspiration while discovering the infinitely delicate art of Japanese papermaking, chanced upon in a store next door to a sushi restaurant in Kyoto.

This led to Mackintosh embroidered dresses with blue-and-white anemones, vaguely reminiscent of a pattern from a lacquered screen; yellow and white lace dresses with scalloped edges inspired by decorative paper prints; and kimono-shaped jackets.

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