Roman Kozak: The Waves Of Byblos Takes Us To The Flowerland
Coming into Palazzo del Senato in the historic center of Milan I was preoccupied with the idea of of a Wonderland. I felt myself transported to a parallel reality, as if passing through a magic mirror. This was how the Byblos fashion show started, from the high notes of a soft sound, to the dreamy atmosphere the new collection was presented in a dreamy waving effect. Basic black was diluted with circles of Raspberry-Strawberry color gradation; other pieces were accompanied by a stretching deep aquamarine, azure and cobalt blue.
I peered into these colors and I saw deconstructed flower graphics which changed size. That’s why Byblos designer Manuel Facchini called the soul of the collection “Alice in Flowerland”. Inspired by Rocio Montoya’s surreal graphic art, and the dream-like style of Raymond Sepulveda and his dark heroines Byblos did great 3-D effects on the prints this season. All-over macramé, crochet pieces and ruffles also emphasized the wonder in the collection. Mini-dresses with explosions of dynamic knitted elements and wool pompons made it even more candid. Volumes were soft and amble; and there was some decaying effects in different-textured inlays, such as plissé that seemed to be coming apart.
Straight & palazzo pants, egg-shaped outwear and gilets, dresses with embroidered backgrounds – all this made Byblos fall/winter 2016 collection more prêt-à-porter as in Alice’s world – which combined dreams with reality. With dresses that became bouquets, with the ruddy make-up and straightened hair, models did their catwalk with a very stylish soul along a soundtrack made up of Lana Del Rey’s – Once upon a dream…
Byblos showed Alice, but she looked like a real woman who knew what to wear, and how to play with colors and her clothes – because her future was a blend of fantasy and reality, of femininity and nature.