The New York Fashion Week fall ’16 shows began in the brawling aftermath of the New Hampshire primary and ended in the shadow of the South Carolina Republican primary. And these events set the mood of New York Fashion Week for fall 2016 for showgoers and critics.
Nowadays it’s hard to decide what defines the city’s aesthetic: politics or art or fantasy or business. What many agree on is New York fashion today lacks cohesion. There is a lot of talk of generational shift and at the end of the day the fall 16 season points to the fact that the ground is still moving.
But these four emerging designers give us hope that New York Fashion Week will remain the innovative fashion capital of the world.
Delpozo’s runway shows are still a hot ticket on the New York Fashion Week circuit. Designer Josep Font’s latest collection for Delpozo is a dreamy linup of artful romance. The aesthetic is mostly voluminous, couture-like silhouettes that float away from the body with exaggerated volume, conveying power and drama. Shoulders are a focal point, either left bare — as in the cutouts on a prim, violet-collared minidress — or covered up with rounded wool coats and capes cut with generous cropped sleeves.
For Proenza Schouler fall 2016 designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez build upon the exquisite knitwear they first introduced two seasons ago. The bold crisscross lacings featured as lingerie last season is reinvented in the form of skinny-ribbed knits engineered in collaged patterns, applied as asymmetrical closures on jackets, dresses and tops with slits at the waist and shoulder.
The fall collection, the show notes read, explores “notions of control and release.” In terms of craft and the technical aspect of making clothes, that means experimentation with cut and silhouette — when to hug the body, how to expose skin. With this collection McCollough and Hernandez show the world they are deliberate creators, exacting in their vision and application of design.
Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of the emerging label Public School continue to push the boundaries of urban wear. Their runway designs for fall 2016 features stylistic articles of clothing typically associated with the streets. The pieces are elevated to a heightened sense of refinement through expert tailoring and the strategic applique of lux-textiles such as shearling and fur. As a result the looks translate as new options of luxury utility wear that will appeal to a broader audience, and shows Public School as a new heritage brand in the making.
Rodarte sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy have always had a knack for all-over body designs. It’s not uncommon to find lace, fringe, tulle, print, and sequin with asymmetrical cuts, pleating, and ruffles all in a single Rodarte dress. The allure is the effortlessness the gowns project which is quite difficult considering there is so much going on. For fall 2016 the designers retain that gypsy cool-girl feel by featuring slim, tea-length dresses sectioned into collage-like panels of hand-beaded and hand-painted guipure lace with floral and bird accents that has a homespun touch. The models were like nouveau fairies in single sleeve gowns with bodices and skirts made in white, black and burgundy overtly feminized with pink ruffled accents.