Today is the first day of New York Fashion Week but all eyes are on Los Angeles where Hedi Slimane presented his Fall 2016 men’s and Pre-Fall 2016 women’s collections for Saint Laurent Paris at L.A.’s Palladium theater.
This collection is genius and marks a turning point for the Saint Laurent brand under Hedi Slimane’s guidance.
The blaring change is the length of the skirts and dresses in the collection. The Midcalf-length is the new mini-skirt in Slimane’s mind. The beauty of the midcalf-length is it’s power to make every women look taller and slimmer, and it is textbook Yves Saint Laurent for its sophistication and effortless style.
Slimane amped-up the high-waisted, calf-length cool factor with rocker boots textured in sequin and velvet in eye popping colors and crystallized embellishments; which means this look is far from boring.
The length of the skirt is further highlighted by the cinching of the waist. The YSL belt is a definite trend item, it is the new “it bag”. The belts are used to define the waist, accentuate the hip and elongate the leg which, again, works on any woman.
The menswear is all about the jacket. Whether guys choose to shave or not to shave is no longer the question – the jacket is most important for the Saint Laurent gentleman. Jackets are overtly embellished in style like the calf length boots from the women’s wear line, as they are textured with materials such as felt, velvet and fur.
The mid-length coats riff on classic menswear styles such as military coats, top coats, tuxedo coats and trench coats but with a twist. The standout look is a long tuxedo coat in a vintage leopard print with felt lapel.
The collection is a clear winner yet rumors persist that this will be Slimane’s last runway show and gossip within the industry is that Slimane is very frustrated with the suits’ interference and he has even walked out on fittings. This isn’t surprising given the number of designers who are leaving big brands helmed by large conglomerates due to the time pressure and lack of creative freedom.
If this is Hedi Slimane’s last collection with the Saint Laurent brand he should feel happy. This is a collection Yves Saint Laurent would be proud of.