Giambattista Valli Spring 2016 Couture

Giambattista Valli references to four of Paris’ great gardens — Bagatelle, Palais-Royal, Luxembourg and the Tuileries — whose catalogue inspired the Empire silhouette of some of his spring 2016 couture dresses.

Valli opened his show with his familiar Sixties-styled shifts, their shoulders and sleeves ringed with organza ruffles; intricate floral embroideries circling the neckline or blooming from the hems. Caped backs added a flourish to some cocktail dresses; sparkly jabots to others.

The workmanship was exquisite, especially on two evening coats in astrakhan; one embroidered with rosebush branches made of mink, and beautiful enough to wear inside out; another with the fur married to macramé that had been embroidered with garlands of flowers and tipped in crystal beads.

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