Mary Katrantzou Spring 2016 focused less on technology in favor of folklore, yielding a collection that felt more bohemian in style,backstage the designer stated her wish to pursue “microscopic” yet dense decoration soft and light enough to roll up into a suitcase.

Mary delicately mingled iridescent quilting, metallic brocades, Lurex-shot chiffon, embroideries, crystals and tiny sequins. She kept the color palette intense and metallic, which added a frisson of psychedelia.

She kept the shapes short, simple and gently flared, occasionally layering her mini-dresses over knit, space-dyed bodysuits. It was hard to identify which folkloric elements came from the Balkans, from Spain, from Romania, which was her point: obscuring their origins to create new hybrids.