Shayne Oliver’s fall 2016 Hood by Air collection was meant to symbolize his “pilgrimage” back to New York City after a year and a half spent producing collections in Milan. Faux boarding passes marked each guest’s seat, and his lineup played on themes of travel, luggage and utility.
For women, Oliver’s signature deconstructed silhouettes focused on utilitarian straps, hardware and fabrics ranging from black leather and shearling to red patent leather. The over-the-top outfits diffused the boundaries between genders. The collection gave a nod to Nineties London subcultures and was mostly free of logos, affirming Oliver’s status as a rebellious outsider.