The Fashion Plate
You Are Reading

His Name Was Robert Mapplethorpe.

0
Guerrilla Art

His Name Was Robert Mapplethorpe.

Robert Mapplethorpe emerged as an artist in New York in the 1970s amid two simultaneous but disparate events: the rise of the market for photography as a fine art, and the explosion of punk and gay cultures. Originally trained in painting and sculpture, Mapplethorpe gravitated toward photography, first making erotic collages in 1969 to 1970 with images cut from magazines, then creating his own photographs using a Polaroid camera. Within a few years he was exhibiting erotic male and female nudes, still lifes of flowers, and celebrity portraits, all made with a large-format camera.

Robert-Mapplethorpe
Grace Jones by Robert Mapplethorpe

By the late 1970s his work had developed into a style that was classical and stylish. He continued to explore explicit homoerotic themes, and his subject matter made his work a lightning rod for the contentious debates on public funding for the visual arts during the 1980s.

Robert Mapplethorpe, Embrace, 1982. ©Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation
Robert Mapplethorpe, Embrace, 1982. ©Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation.
Although he occasionally worked with color, Mapplethorpe remained devoted to the minimal elegance of black-and-white photography, using the medium in part as an agent to explore certain paradoxes and binary relationships. In many of his works, for example, the distinction between male and female is problematized. In his two Self-Portrait photographs of 1980, the artist blurs his gender identity by appearing in one image in partial drag, his face dramatically made-up, and in another as a sneering, smoking greaser archetype. Juxtaposing conventional signs for man and woman—physical, cosmetic, and sartorial—Mapplethorpe questions established notions of “male” and “female,” revealing their status as socially constructed terms. In a similar fashion, Mapplethorpe’s 1985 Self-Portrait collapses other supposed dualisms by picturing himself with horns—a sign pointing to the concepts of good and evil central to both Christian and Greek mythology and embodied by figures such as Satan, the Bible’s fallen angel, and Dionysus, a Greek god associated with hedonism and sexual desire. In other works Mapplethorpe juxtaposes black nudes with emphatically white objects—a shroud, marble statuary, flowers, or, in the case of Ken Moody and Robert Sherman (1984), another male.

93.4299_ph_web
Ken Moody and Robert Sherman (1984) by Robert Mapplethorpe

The iconic Ken Moody and Robert Sherman, 1984 (estimate: $95,000-110,000) photograph, in which two male heads are juxtaposed in profile, infused with the near sculptural elegance and classical composure that defined Mapplethorpe’s still-life photographs and portraits during this period is still one of the most prized works in the art world.

In photographs of nude models and sculptural objects such as Apollo (1988) and Italian Devil (1988), Mapplethorpe both literally and formally drew on classical sculpture. The blending of sculpture and photography in his work represents both a classical search for perfection—a word Mapplethorpe used frequently—and an attempt to collapse the two mediums into a single practice. He once claimed, “If I had been born one or two hundred years ago, I might have been a sculptor, but photography is a very quick way to see, to make sculpture.”

Patti Smith, 1976. Fotografia © Robert Mapplethorpe

In his haunting Self-Portrait of 1988, Mapplethorpe blended sculpture with his own image. Unlike earlier self-portraits in which he assumed various personae such as rocker, leather fetishist, cross-dresser, and fashion plate, this photograph, taken about a year before his death due to complications of AIDS, has a more somber mood.

Self Portrait 1988 by Robert Mapplethorpe 1988.

The artist’s gaunt face peers out from a black background and appears to be floating in space. The seemingly disembodied head simultaneously suggests his physical deterioration and formally echoes the sculpted skull that serves as the handle of his cane. A modern day vanitasimage, this work suggests the powerful connection between art and life as well as Mapplethorpe’s own transitory existence.

About The Author

The Fashion Plate is an ethical fashion magazine delving into the future of sustainable fashion, design and living.

“Choose Well, Live Well.”

Hey! Leave a comment!

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

%d bloggers like this: