Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring 2016 collection was a classic display of Yamamoto clothes, masterfully constructed and often beautiful in his wistfully dark way. Black fabric came gracefully draped and knotted around the body in asymmetric versions of Greco-Roman and Japanese robes. Lean and sensual, flashing flesh here and there, the silhouettes took on an urban tone when paired with high-top sneakers.
In a shift to corroded romance, corsets overflowed with fabric and boning over layered hoop skirts. It segued to an artful street vibe with graffiti in the shape of hands on a cutout bodice. A black corset dress, cut up and draped over a broken-down denim cage skirt and jeans, provided the collection’s most current moment.
The procession of black held steady, cycling through undone bodices, exaggerated hoods, tiered ruffles, bloomers and gigantic draped umbrellas. Weary by the end, the lineup needed the sudden colorful, quizzical note on which it closed: a single red dress, prettily decrepit.