Ulyana Sergeenko must have gone on a road trip back to the 80s circa the Brat Pack and cult fan favorite “it girl” Molly Ringwald. Because her spring 2016 couture collection reminds of the Pretty in Pink film’s protagonist, played by Ringwald, who was known for her tough girl attitude and DIY sewing skills.
One can never forget the inspiring scene when Molly’s character takes two pink prom dresses and creates one beautiful off-beat dress that left her leading man breathless and instigated one of the best kisses ever in an 80s film. At least we believe MTV awarded them for it.
In the backstage of the Ulyana Sergeenko show at the Hotel de la Salle the designer’s mood board was filled with 80s vibe images including finger-less gloves, combat boots and white lace dresses circa Madonna’s “Like a Virgin” video. On the same board were Russian nobles from the 19th century, the excessive end of the Russian Empire, known for its opulent balls, carnivals and gypsy entertainment.
For the collection ruffles were a major theme, used on gypsy skirts and boisterous coatdresses. Some were made of hand-knitted lace (a rare and labor-intensive technique, that reportedly took five months each to make), in an upbeat palette of lemon, mint and lavender. Yards of organza and taffeta spilled into candy-colored princess dresses, while an eighties jumpsuit with turn-of-the century puff-sleeves gathered silk like bees gather honey.
Embellishments were top-shelf: one silk overcoat featured medallions hand-painted by a conservator of the Hermitage, and Stephen Jones–designed newsboy caps à la Madge.