By Lucas Pantoja
Milan, Italy — It’s now late February, and in Milan the temperature has been unsettlingly spring-like. The sun gleaming and green already touching down upon the city’s neighborhoods — mother nature set a vibrant tone for MFW. But inside the walls of the Museo Della Permanente, taken over by designer Cristiano Burani’s fall 2020 runway show, the mood was a hundred-and-eighty degree turn in the direction towards the darkness of hallow’s eve. I note [hallow’s eve] (halloween) not solely because of the vibe but even the uses of orange, purple, an black as seen in the color palette of the collection. Surely, because it’s Burani and this is fashion week here: that darkness presented was elevated to an illustrious level, complex, and full of glam.
The spirit of the collection was an eclectic mix. As if Darren Aronofsky’s Black Swan fused with Nirvana level grunge and a curveball element of ‘80s Scarface sleaze was thrown in.
Titled #DISCOCLOCHARD, and based upon two concepts: starting with the “clochard”. According to the press release, [Burani] feels society is poorer in aspects beyond the economy. In an effort to portray a “New Richness”, the designer [Burani] aspired to eliminate fabric waste, and give more value to that which would normally be disregarded. Then comes in the disco, where garments can shine on their wearers and femininity excels.
In a combination of discoteca and artisanal moda, we find bold efforts of power-suited tailoring and leather blazers, fringed dresses and coats in satin, as well as glittered and sequined tops. In a not-so-ethical-fashion, but impressively well-constructed, cashmere coats and capes were embellished with laminated mink, fox, and finnracoon. The silhouette for the collection was unforgivingly oversized, with loose-hanging, hand stitched-patterned knits, and wide-legged bottoms. For those interested in building up their wardrobes timelessly, the gems of the runway were the belted trench coats: one in purple satin and the other in patchwork. Lest we forget the rustic and baggy jeans, which have the potential to be profusely styled.
While all of the glamour of the ‘80s is featured in the collection, just as notably we find the grunginess of the ‘90s, as seen in the oversized jeans and various plaids. Whether seen as one print or mixed, cut-and-sewn together [the plaids] felt reminiscent of something Junya Watanabe or Comme Des Garcons. In any case, for those brave enough to wear precious designer pieces to the club, I recommend going for the ‘80s look. As for those who are burnt out from their clubbing days, the ‘90s grunge get-up would serve well for the gallery cocktail events, or underground indie shows. Either way a decision needs to be made: grunge, glam, or.. both?