Arthur Arbesser’s Spring /Summer 2017 collection reworks traditional designs from the past. Arbesser steps outside of the box to re-purpose school dresses as holiday clothes. The traditional a-line pleated dresses and skirts, stiff crew collar shirts and protective rain coats get remixed and re-designed in new fabrics, technical fabrics with shimmer, and a bright new color palette. The new look has a gentle strictness, it’s playful, and a bit kinky.
The color palette and color patterns are bold. Arbesser has a fascination with geometry, graphics, and color blocks. This ties into the brands focus on uniformity. The colors add a lightness to the mood. Arbesser chose acid green, electric blue and blood orange for his Spring collection.
The materials and textures include an old-school floral lace dyed with the acid colors into a cool camouflage pattern. The classic gingham material is given a futuristic shine thanks to heat transferred fabric embedded with Swarovski crystals.
As for the designs Arubesser focused on over-sized shirt dresses with horizontal jockey silk panels spliced between pleats. For styling he paired boldly striped technical knit sweaters with patent leather boots by Fabio Rusconi and high-tech eye-wear by Silhouette. He used Swarovski crystal arrows as an anchor— the arrow echoed throughout the collection including rings and over-sized earrings. The accessories were designed by Ilenia Corti. “The idea was to make it all ironic and twisted and make it sort of funky,” Arbesser explained backstage.
For the show’s location Arthur Arbesser collaborated with architect and friend Luca Cipelletti to present his collection at the renovated Museum of Science and Technology for Leonardo da Vinci. The location was a former stables dating back to the Habsburgs’ time in Milan. Cipelletti was able to secure the venue for Arbesser’s catwalk show.