Penned by Nichelle Cole
2014 began the trend of the shrunken trousers, featured mainly in menswear collections— they were tailored and shorter, tighter and shrunken, almost too tight and too short. But Peet Dulleart’s SS17 a-gender collection took the trend one step further showing purposely shrunken, ill fitting pieces that were disturbingly snug, but awesomely reflective of a lifestyle one would define as youthful, comforting and oddly carefree.
Peet Dullaert is known for his use of fashion as a means to highlight individuality. And yet, this season there was an evolving design direction for the Peet Dulleart line. The brand’s ethos to offer clothes that were interchangeable, emphasizing liberating perspectives, embracing all genders and bodies, was still there but there were some traditional design tailoring techniques on the catwalk this season and an introduction of a rather conservative handbag collection which I found surprising.
And if I’m not mistaken, the shoes with pearl piercings and Swarovski encrusted stones means the designer has discovered the talents of the young Italian female shoe designer and founder of the brand, Coliac. A nice addition, the traditional brogue style and precious piercings add a chic yet edgy touch.
As for the clothes, the signature frill finishings made an appearance. They were paired with classic ‘Concorde’ trousers. The Techno-Plissé executions continued to embody the Peet Dullaert design aesthetic: streamlined and forward thinking, with a keen focus on a contemporary and intelligent silhouette. Trouser suits in simple wide lines with over-sized blazers and classic pinstripe suits were more traditional. The dresses in celestial tie-dye inspired fabrics featured in shades of gold, ocean blue and green indulged the designers fascination with outer space.
Innovative cuts, tailored to embrace and flow around the body, fit today’s posture, while the sport motif and contemporary design aesthetic fit today’s trends.