Designer Consuelo Castiglioni presented a heritage collection that worked on the strong side of artfulness. For the Marni Spring 2016 collection Castiglioni created geometry of color and form that challenged convention but stayed consummately chic.
This concept of artfulness carried over into the beauty for the show. Marni makeup artist Tom Pecheux experimented with the art of lashes to dramatic effect.
“For the first time at Marni, we’re working with the lashes,” said makeup artist Tom Pecheux, the brand’s backstage beauty artist for 18 years. Using MAC Cosmetics, he imprecisely attached spidery eyelash tendrils cut from full sets.
“We’re creating a crazy, magic forest with the eyes, like if we’d applied too much RevitaLash or like a girl who went too far with eyelash extensions, but I don’t want it to look like a Barbie doll,” he said. “I want it to have a spooky look.”
As for the collection this season Castiglioni opened with a slipdress in sturdy white leather secured to thick black straps and worn over a covered-up length of dark teal. This established the high-contrast construct. Soon, a vibrant red skirt popped out from under a black leather coat under a pink leather camisole; a yellow turtleneck peeked from under a black fishnet top under a pink tunic, and before you knew it came a joyful rush of collaged cartoon lace polka dots in primary shades with white and beige.
Amidst the powerful punches of color, there was some gradation in a perfect black wrap coat. Castiglioni went for volume, flaps, folds and splices that kept the interest level high.
As for pattern, for the most part, it was created by piling on and cutting away one fabric over another. When a leaf motif appeared, it came first as a print and ultimately, a lavishly embroidered black cutout tunic over a cotton T-shirt dress.