Penned by Nichelle Cole
When a generation is in search of a cultural identity symbols become everything. For DROMe SS17 the female contradictions of brazen vs demure is examined and re-interpreted to reflect the different dimensions of today’s woman.
Cuts, bows and pleats become symbolic of a coded message that takes an introspective journey through the fragments of Marianna Rosati’s dark feminism.
The designer’s sartorial skill and knowledge of modern fabric technology is at play with designs that riff on traditional roles and nuances of gender. Marianna pulls a thread that literally leaves the clothes in taters. T-shirts are decorated with surgical cuts then layered over lightweight leathers which become as fluid as silk. There is a delicate femininity in each look that is nonetheless bold for all it’s fragility.
The silhouette is clearly an interpretation of the men’s line, filtered through an urban lens, with broad and architectonic shoulders that lie in opposition to the lightness and fluidity of the drapings, the slits and the side openings on the sleeves.
A major trend in the collection is the multiple re-interpretation of the classic bow. The theme of the bow acts as a decoration on tops: it marks necklines and closes jackets. Too the blouses with asymmetrical collars, feature openings on the shoulders and arms, are enclosed in rouche-sleeves and bows.
Putting the collection into the limelight is the leather with its shiny and iridescent color and paper-like texture. On the catwalk, the DROMe woman walks through a classic French baroque time in the metallic textures, fit with rouche tops worn with wide trousers, always cinched by belts, slim, in an obi style.