Marco de Vincenzo’s Spring 2016 collection featured pleated Lurex, metallic leather and other surprising textures. His big statement this season was crepe georgette laser-cut into fringe and hand-sewn onto weightless coats, flared pants, T-shirts and tunics with resembling something between fur and feathers.
The surprise of the show came in sensual cocktail dresses, the breasts exalted with underwires, or magnified with lace in optical Victor Vasarely patterns.
“It’s all about following my instinct for color,” de Vincenzo said backstage. “It’s impossible for me to start without anything in my hands,” he said, showing off a skirt quilted in wave patterns resembling Japanese woodblock prints.
The Japanese motifs and fabrics recurred throughout the collection, and were rendered in surprising ways as in a silk jacquard biker jacket, or a loose blouse fronted with a mountain landscape.