Haider Ackerman explained his Spring 2016 collection’s concept as “A gang of girls, but each one an individual,” the designer said backstage, saying he wished to convey a “strong” look for a “strange” world. His gang members were outfitted in low-slung pants similar to the ones in his spring men’s collection. Her boyish trousers came in glossy satins, colorful shantung, rugged leather, shredded patchworks or black wool with grosgrain waistbands.
For the beauty, Katsuya Kamo conceived dramatic, textured updos integrating brightly colored hairpieces and strands of silk – sometimes drawn across models’ faces – at the Haider Ackermann show.
“When they called me, they said: ‘Just come in with hair color’ and gave no other information,” said the hairstylist, who jetted in from Tokyo. Kamo decided on an elegant riff on punk.
He created gravity-defying tufts of blue, green, orange and yellow, which stood out defiantly from heads otherwise wound with strands of the models’ own hair, sometimes done up in small braids. The multicolor approach wasn’t happenstance.
“This is the first time Haider has done a lot of color in his collection,” explained makeup
artist Lynsey Alexander, working with MAC Cosmetics. “There’s color in the hair, so we had to remove color from faces.”
As for the collection Haider Ackerman paid attention to detail featuring pointy boots which accentuated the rock ‘n’ roll mood, as did cropped leather biker jackets and vests, while tender touches included chiffon blouses with tight rows of frothy ruffles ringing the arms or the neck, or lined up on jabots.
Also featured was an array of duster coats — either tuxedo style or in boudoir velvets — and his signature fringed scarves swooped over and under mannish jackets and vests.