The Realness Behind Shayne Oliver’s New Collection For Longchamp.

Shayne Oliver is one of the first disrupters of the high fashion industry. In 2006 Shayne Oliver launched Hood By Air, an a-gender fashion line known for the ‘realness’ of the clothes, designed for the often unseen and underrepresented queer population in New York. The gender nonspecific line resonated in youth culture beyond even he could have imagined, it quickly began to sell and it made him an instant sensation.

H.B.A. turns hoodies and multi-pocketed jackets into avant-garde objects.Photograph by Jeremy Liebman for The New Yorker

The success may have caught the budding designer off guard, last year Shayne Oliver announced he would take a step back from producing collections for his self-funded project and take over the reigns as creative director of Helmut Lang.

In a release Oliver simply stated he would be fully dedicating himself to his new role at Helmut Lang but he vowed to bring back Hood By Air “in the near future.”

“Helmut Lang Seen by Shayne Oliver”, fall 2018 . (courtesy photo)

In addition to his stint at Helmut Lang, Oliver creates capsule collections for high profile brands, his most recent collaboration is with Longchamp.

Longchamp by Shayne Oliver

Longchamp is a powerhouse company that after seven decades in business and with over 300 boutiques worldwide has remained family-run and privately owned. The brand creates streamlined pieces that are durable and are intended to use.

Longchamp’s Le Pliage bag—which is a foldable tote, primarily made of nylon- gets reimaged each season by a select designer. The past 13 years Longchamp worked with Moschino’s creative director Jeremy Scott. This year, the brand recruited Shayne Oliver to reimage the tote and to create a ready-to-wear and accessories line that characterizes New York.

Longchamp by Shayne Oliver
Longchamp by Shayne Oliver
Longchamp by Shayne Oliver
Longchamp by Shayne Oliver

The new collection plays with the concept of travel. Oliver utilizes his transformative aesthetic and branding techniques to reimagine Longchamp’s iconic Le Pliage tote and ready to wear line in motion.

Longchamp by Shayne Oliver
Longchamp by Shayne Oliver
Longchamp by Shayne Oliver
Longchamp by Shayne Oliver
Longchamp by Shayne Oliver

The words “hiatus” printed in block letters on the totes and garment bags are emblematic, they imply he will one day reopen his own label “Hood By Air”.

Longchamp by Shayne Oliver


The Longchamp by Shayne Oliver collection opened on May 4th in the US and online, and will debut internationally in early May.



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Nichelle Cole is the founder & editor-in-chief of The Fashion Plate magazine. A respected writer, stylist and influencer, she has been published in fashion magazines around the world.

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